As I scratch off another day of being in isolation owing to the Covid-19 outbreak and struggling to remember whether it’s a Tuesday or Wednesday, I started to reminisce when I actually went out of my way to isolate myself in the middle of nowhere - voluntarily cutting myself off from civilisation. Being in isolation gives me time to reflect. I reflect on the journey I took, on how privileged I am to be at that very place in time and on how far I’ve come to be the person I am now. I like to think I’m a sociable person even extroverted at times, but I have an insatiable appetite for space, wilderness and isolation. The quest for uncertainty, unfamiliarity and discovery.

These are my favourite middle of nowhere places:

1) Patagonia, Chile

The first time I trekked around Torres Del Paine National Park in the heart of Patagonia was during winter. On average, the park attracts 700 visitors a day during the summer peak. As I registered my name at the park entrance, I was only the third person to have entered the park that day and one Japanese tourist was reported lost. Given all the boat services were closed for the season, there were no shortcuts. Even during the winter, the sun was intense, but the air was crisp. The lengthy flat walks were lonely and mind-numbing at times, but I was kept on my toes as curious wild horses canter past.

2) Antarctica

It comes as no surprise that Antarctica is the coldest, windiest, and most isolated continent on Earth. It is also the largest desert in the world. Tourism in Antarctica has seen a 50% growth in visitors over the last 4 years so to get a real sense of isolation, it’s important to choose a relatively small boat as your preferred tour operator. Although landings are limited to 100 explorers at a time, the surroundings are so overwhelmingly vast that there were times when it was unsettling.

3) Kauai, United States

The natural amphitheatre at the end of the Awa'awapuhi Trail

Choosing a small populated island part of the United States might seem an incongruous choice for a middle of nowhere place. This remote part of the island is found on the Hawaiian island of Kauai at the very end of the Awa'awapuhi Trail. Not only is Kauai literally in the middle of the largest ocean in the world but standing on this knife edge ridge whilst looking out of this prehistoric basin with the seemingly infinite sea as a backdrop was a humbling experience.

4) Easter Island, Chile

I only started to appreciate the remoteness of Easter Island when my flight took off from Santiago in Chile. For the entire duration of the flight, all I saw out my cabin window was the never-ending azure Pacific Ocean. My most memorable moment on the island was spent watching the sunrise with the Moai statues lost in the rhythmic percussion of waves pillowed by the rocks.

5) Amazon Basin, Peru

There are still unknown tribes of indigenous people hidden in the largest rainforest in the world, some of whom have not made contact with civilisation. The jungle is a maze of lush verdant plants and trees. I did a short walk with a guide to spot wildlife and plants and failed to even realise we had done a circular route. Without a guide, getting lost would be an inevitability.

6) Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

The trails heading to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro are hustle and bustle with travellers supported by a troupe of porters and guides. Probably not the most isolated place on Earth I experienced but when I stepped off the trail to take a gasp of air, I found myself in an eerie and stark landscape. The sight of my goal looked impossibly distant.

7) Ciudad Perdida, Colombia

Ciudad Perdida is Spanish for “Lost City” and only discovered relatively recently in 1972. It’s difficult to imagine that the ruins were lost in the jungle for millennia and even predates Machu Picchu. It takes over two days to trek there through dense Colombian jungle. I was looking for a remote trekking experience and this adventure did not disappoint. I relish the small things like having to carry my backpack above my head whilst wading through chest height rapids. Although not a technically difficult trek, I was constantly damp and wet but the Lost City at the end was an unparalleled experience.

8) Atacama Desert, Chile

This is one of the best places in the world I have had the pleasure of admiring the sunset. This alien-like desert is the driest nonpolar desert in the world. I chose to cycle here so that I can find a spot away from the tour buses. I’ve always been attracted to the vast expanses of deserts and the feeling of insignificance amongst the wide-open space. I sat on the ridge and witnessed the lunar landscape gradually turning hues of orange and then to red before the moon started to appear in the horizon.

9) Namib Desert, Namibia

Deadvlei is located in the Namib desert which means “vast place”. I spent 2 hours climbing to the top of the highest dune in the world. It was sweltering at the peak but I was surrounded by undulating dunes as far as I could see. At the bottom I could make out Deadvlei, a dried clay pan punctuated by fossilised acacia trees. This desolate panorama provides a surreal backdrop to sit down in the shade and reflect on your place in this world.

10) Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Perched on top of a ridge the locals call the “Indian Nose” is a viewing hut with the most awe-inspiring view of Lake Atitlan. After paying a local boy with a machete for “patrolling” the route (not sure I really had a choice!), I sat there just after sunrise looking out at three volcanoes watching over the sacred lake like sentinels.

11) Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

The Salar de Uyuni is the world’s largest salt flat. I didn’t appreciate just how expansive the salt flats are until I tore across it riding shotgun in a 4x4. As there is no near point of reference, I could not even gauge how fast the car was travelling. I felt like I was trapped on an infinite road to nowhere in this stark alien environment.

My Travel Musings:

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