Our KL Home from Home

It’s been over 20 years since I was last time in Kuala Lumpur, the first time being a young backpacker going through the rites of passage through South East Asia. Now it’s a different but equally rewarding experience with a family in tow including two young daughters. KL is not only geographically between Singapore and Bangkok but I’ve always described KL as somewhere between the freneticism of Bangkok and some of the orderliness of Singapore.

The iconic Petrona Towers in Kuala Lumpur

Having already visited the idyllic Perhentian Islands and Cameron Highlands, I was keen to visit Penang and explore KL as a family. Being a thriving metropolis, there are a plethora of hotels to choose from in KL. Where do we even start?! Due to the competition and strength of the currency, luxury hotels are reasonably priced. Rooms in five star hotels start from around £150 per night with all the top international brands.

Given Malaysia’s e-hailing taxi app Grab was so cheap, location was not a major deciding factor for us. Following extensive research, we opted for the Hotel Indigo which is part of the InterContinental Group. Our decision was largely influenced by firstly how new it was (only opened in December 2023) and secondly the bohemian aesthetics. Although Hotel Indigo was a relatively smaller hotel than the large high rises around the KLCC area, the rooms were spacious and thoughtfully decorated with incredible views of the second tallest building in the world, the Merdeka 118.

There are a number of experiences available to guests of Hotel Indigo. One for the family was the hands-on Kopi Coffee Making experience where staff would take you through the process of making Malaysian Coffee which is known locally as “Kopi”. The kids enjoyed the mixing but not the tasting so much!

The Silver Monkey restaurant at the top of Hotel Indigo offers panoramic views of KL and inventive seafood and steak dishes. The fried red snapper was cooked with an Asian twist and is highly is packed with flavours and highly recommended. Aside from the dinner service at Silver Monkey, lunch is also available where the talented chefs have created their take on a Malay-influenced Afternoon Tea.

A visit to KL would not be complete without taking in the views from KL Tower. The entrance of which is directly opposite the hotel. The tower does close when it is raining so due to its close proximity you can be spontaneous in deciding when to go up. We decided to take advantage of the skyline views at night after dinner. It was a perfect way to round off our last night in KL.

The skyline view from KL Tower

Hotel Indigo has the feel of a boutique but backed by international standards. It really felt like our home away from home.

The Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok - The Calm before the Storm

On our family whistlestop tour of South East Asia, we decided to make stop in Bangkok enroute to Bali. As part of a family holiday, it’s always good to mix it up a bit for the kids and throw in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and show them a city I enjoyed as a backpacker even if it is just for two nights. Bangkok is the rite of passage for any traveller (think Khao San Road!) but travels with a family is different where you still want the culture but also ensure that the wife and kids are looked after at the same time. Like Singapore, it is a great hub to travel around neighbouring countries with one fundamental difference – it has more character, it has more flavour.

No matter how many times I’ve visited this sprawling city, it’s a place where I always feel lost. It is one of the few cities that live up to the claim of being a twenty-four hour city. Markets and shops open late into the night, and the nightlife never seems to stop. What other place would my kids be able to experience a ride in a tuk-tuk and then hop on a boat to visit temples and a floating market on the same day?  

Not a dystopian future but Bangkok!

We decided to base ourselves at The Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok for the escape of an outdoor pool and the convenient location in the trendy Phrom Phong district. The hotel is surrounded by a throng of instagrammable cafes and eateries. The hotel itself is fresh and modern and feels a world away from the snail's pace of Bangkok traffic and the incessant blaring horns. The Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok is not only served by a wonderfully authentic Italian/Mediterranean restaurant called Scalini but is it connected to the DoubleTree by Hilton so you can also choose to dine at Dee Lite where we had one of our favourite Thai cuisines. Signature dishes from all the regions of Thailand are cooked in front of you by the chefs in an open kitchen.

Lunch at Dee-Lite

Once you explored the Japanese influenced Phrom Phong district, you’ll find the BTS Skytrain is only 5 minutes’ walk from the hotel. This is the best way to explore Bangkok and circumvent the impossibly slow traffic. All the notable shopping districts in Siam, Chit Lom and Asok are situated on the same line and can be reached in the time you wait for a Grab Taxi to arrive. The Skytrain will also connect you to the Grand Palace as well as the famous temples of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. It is cheap, clean and rapid. It’s either that or walk!

As with family travel, hotel room space is a luxury but we were comfortably accommodated in two connecting rooms by The Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok and the rooms were nothing short of expectations from the consistent brand.

Due to the plethora of spas in the area, there were no spa facilities at the Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok. Being spoilt for choice for spas, we found a reasonably priced but aesthetically pleasing (as all good spas should be!) one about two blocks away called Once Upon A Thai Spa (Phrom Phong). Make sure to book in advance.

During our stay at The Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, there was a Japanese market set up in the foyer with stalls selling anything from high-end Japanese patisserie, jewellery to clothing. It’s great to see hotels involving themselves with the local community.

We really enjoyed our stay at The Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, the ideal base to explore such a vibrant and chaotic city!

10 Revelations after 100 countries

As I write this article in a hotel room in the 100th country/territory/dependency that I’ve visited which happened to be North Macedonia, I notice that the film “Around the World in 80 days” is on the TV in the background. Is it irony or is it an omen?! Note that I specified “country/territory/dependency”, the number of which is contentious from the start! All I will say on the topic is that I don’t think it would be reasonable to claim to have visited Taiwan if you’ve only been to mainland China as an example…Equally, I’m not going to visit every island in Indonesia to tick it off. I think if you can rationalise it to yourself, then you can internalise it remembering that it’s not about proving to others or competing with other travellers. What matters is your own experience and the indelible memories you take away. The magic number is a mere milestone in your own journey of a lifetime.

I had managed to reach my hundredth country a month before I turned 40 years old bearing in mind that travel is not my profession. In fact, it has nothing to do with it – I’m a very sedentary lawyer by trade. I had even explored over 30 countries with my family consisting of 2 young daughters. Travelling to 100 countries should have been an achievement. However, when I crossed the North Macedonian border, I didn’t feel a sense of elation as I expected but I felt a sense of relief that what I had dubbed “Project Century” was finally complete. Like my upcoming birthday, it was just a milestone. The journey has not finished, and I was eager to walk into the future to see what it beholds and where the next chapter of my adventure will take me. Maybe I felt like only half the job was done… that quote by Mark Hertsgaard rings so true:

“Travel is like knowledge. The more you see, the more you know you haven’t seen.”

Maybe I felt relief because lockdown had been the antithesis of travel and I had overcome this challenge. The thick border lines on a map were no longer illusory and my freedom of movement which I believed was an inalienable right had been ripped away from me overnight. I was desperate to travel during the pandemic and complete the final stretch of “Project Century”. I bent COVID rules after the first lockdown (photography suddenly became “essential work”), navigated the traffic light system (remember that!), found loopholes, and succumbed to a myriad of testing and vaccination regimes. To this day, I even shocked myself when I realised how many countries I had visited since Boris shut the country down in March 2020 - 16!

I’ve made plenty of mistakes along the way so here are 10 of the most important tips and revelations:

1. Get your logistics handled.

To be an efficient traveller you need to focus on logistics, logistics and logistics. Time is a commodity. Time on holiday is invaluable! I’m not saying you have to rush from one destination to another, what I am saying is to do your research beforehand to ensure that you are making prudent choices with your time. Don’t rely solely on the guidebooks/TripAdvisor to highlight which places to go and see are unmissable. I read blogs, look at Google images, and watch YouTube videos in order to get an objective view of what is worth visiting and what isn’t. Also, open your mind to driving to contiguous countries. Europe is a great place to quickly tick off a bunch of countries. You can drive to a different country in a couple of hours so build it into your itinerary. We’ve taken a train from Vienna to Bratislava for a day trip and had a long weekend in Namibia from Cape Town. The next tip in relation to logistics is controversial but hear me out: Take advantage of indirect flights. I never understood why there is an aversion to transiting in a country to the final destination. I always take the opportunity to transit a country for a couple of days on the outbound and return leg of a journey. Not only do you get to explore a new country, but you can also break up the long-haul flights. To top it off, these indirect flights are usually cheaper than direct flights. For example, we’ve stopped over in UAE and Oman on our way to South Korea and Sri Lanka respectively.

2. Travel is relative.

Having visited 100 countries (have I mentioned that yet?!) which are diverse ranging from the Andes to the Zambezi, I have seen my share of the natural beauty of our planet. One of the greatest challenges of extensive travel is to see things with fresh eyes. There are times when I feel jaded especially when I inadvertently start comparing amazing wonders with other similar wonders in another part of the world. Once you’ve seen the mighty Victoria Falls or the great Iguazu Falls, it becomes a struggle to appreciate other waterfalls unless it is considerably different. Sometimes I’m envious of the look in my children’s eyes when they see a waterfall or an elephant in the wild for the first time. Some places will let you down because not only is an attraction subjective, but most travellers like to exaggerate their own experiences especially if they made the effort and spent money to get there.

3. Ranking countries is impossible.

By far the most common question I get when I tell people how many countries I’ve been to is “What is your favourite country?” I’ve come to realise that this is an impossible task as my answer changes all the time and also I don’t think I can give a fair answer until I’ve been to all the countries in the world, but I’ll give it a go! So here are my top 5 countries at the time of writing (not in order of preference) and the reasons for my choice:

1. Chile – owing to the diverse landscapes from stark desert to verdant forests to dramatic alpine.

2. Peru – to admire the remarkable Inca architecture which leaves you with an incredulous gasp.

3. Namibia – for the infinite otherworldly sand dunes and middle of nowhere feeling.

4. Japan – to immerse yourself in a juxtaposition of modern and traditional culture.

5. Bhutan – a country with people and panoramas that will leave you spellbound.

4. Put more time and resources into experientialism over materialism.

Will you ever look back on your life and regret the things you didn’t buy whether it’s the latest smartphone, the dream sports car or the IT handbag? Or will you look back and regret the places you didn’t go or see and experience. It’s impossible not to be impressed by the sheer grandeur, splendour and power of the natural world. I guarantee you will never get bored of watching the sunset and it’s free! The things you own will become outdated, less trendy and degrade over time or you will just be looking for the next upgrade to fill the vacuous space in your life. When you travel and see the world, you can’t help but question your motivations in life and reorder your priorities accordingly. Eckhart Tolle once said, “realize deeply that the present moment is all you have. Make the now the primary focus of your life”. He is telling us to live in the moment and seize the day because we can only control what we do in the present. This is the reason I don’t collect things; I choose to collect memories instead. You will never be able to put a value on the feeling of summiting the highest mountain in Africa, discovering the lost city in Colombia or singing to a Bengali villager on a wooden boat… One day my life will flash before my eyes...I'm just making sure it's worth watching!

5. Travel is a privilege.

Through seemingly insurmountable odds I am here conscious and writing this for you. The more I travel, the more I realise what a privileged position I occupy in this world remembering that only six per cent of the world’s population have ever set foot on a plane. During my travels, I have seen a dead peasant being left on the side of a road in India, an Egyptian mother with two daughters the same age as mine begging for food to the gluttony of excesses in Dubai but I am always grateful that I am able to witness the world as it is. It even took a chain of serendipitous events for our planet to be formed and even more luck/intervention for me to be standing on it and admiring it from every angle I can during the fragment of time I have. Realising you are privileged not only in status but also in existence will make you live your life to the fullest.

6. Travel with your kids, even when it’s hard.

Many fellow travellers I know stopped travelling when they had kids. They still go abroad but instead choose the easier option to stay in an all-inclusive resort. As I said before, travel is relative and I don’t see a problem with that for a few days but as a father of two daughters, I want my kids to be stimulated in different ways regardless of whether they remember it or not. We started travelling with both our girls when they were as young as 8 months old and they have been fortunate to marvel at wild elephants in Sri Lanka, learn Korean in Seoul and walk through the narrow Siq in Petra. My 8-year-old daughter has travelled to 32 countries so far. Even her school friends think she’s telling fibs! Nevertheless, with all the pleasures of travel also comes the pain. Travel does not always go according to plan. It forces you to deal with changes in schedules, eating habits and sleep patterns. We’ve had the worst jet lag in Taipei, been bumped off flights, changed hotels weary-eyed in the middle of the night because of an infestation and they’ve sobbed uncontrollably as they landed back home. It might seem chaotic at the time, but all these challenges instil self-confidence, resilience and adaptability at a stage when their character is at its most malleable.

7. Travel when you can and start young.

When I was in my twenties, I decided to leave most of Europe out of my travels as they were on my doorstep and easy to get to from London. I devised a plan to try and work my way inwards hence travel would get relatively easier as I get older! Little did I know at the time, but this also helped me reach 100 countries in the midst of a pandemic as I hit a few countries in Europe in quick succession when the rest of the borders outside of Europe were not even open. If you’re on a budget take advantage of budget airlines to travel. In my opinion, they have opened up the world to places you wouldn’t even consider going. You can get to Sofia in Bulgaria at the cost of a main dish in London. My other piece of advice is do not wait for other people to travel with you. Fix some dates convenient for you, book it and go. Friends may decide to join but don’t be afraid to travel solo if it comes down to it. Besides, you’ll learn that people you can travel with are few and far between even if you’ve known them for years. Travelling solo allows you more time for self-reflection and to assimilate your experiences. It also forces you to meet like-minded travellers and locals are less intimidated to talk to you. I’ve met some great friends from all parts of the world, but I’ve also had an indecent proposal by a fat Mexican man…!

8. People are inherently good.

I receive warnings about countries I choose to visit all the time ironically mainly from people who have never been before to such places! It seems preposterous that countries/cities are stigmatised because of the mainstream media. Travelling destroys those stereotypes and prejudices. I have been told to avoid Guatemala, Palestine, Albania and Cape Town to name a few just based on hearsay, but they turned out to be some of the most beautiful places in the world. When I travel to these places, I talk to locals and listen to first-hand accounts of their experiences. Not only has travelling taught me to be vigilant but it has also allowed me to open up to strangers. There are dangerous areas in every place in the world but I have been fortunate enough not to have encountered any violence. Instead, I’ve experienced that people have gone out of their way to help me in times of need. I’ve hitchhiked across the Yucatan Peninsula with a couple and been invited to play football with Amazonians in Peru. Recently, a Sudanese airport cleaner dropped everything to help me process a bureaucratic exit visa from Khartoum airport which had just been introduced that even the Foreign and Commonwealth Office did not know about! There are more good people than bad people out there.

9. A smile goes a long way.

Smiling transcends all cultures and language barriers. Wherever you are in the world, a recipient of a smile tends to display more openness, are more willing to help and are keen to cooperate. Smiling makes you more approachable with other travellers and locals. They all want to tell you their story. Whilst on the road, not only has a smile help haggle and get some bargains in the markets but it can also get you out of some sticky situations. I’ve managed to cajole a Sudanese security officer to return my GoPro he wanted to confiscate, wriggle my way out of a speeding ticket in Kosovo and get a free bus trip in Sweden!

10. Get up early and savour it.

Out of all the tips I divulged, this is often seen as the most difficult one to execute but maybe the most rewarding. I’ve had travel companions describe me as militant when my alarm sets off in the darkness. Waking up before dawn on your holiday is far from relaxing but getting to a wonder of the world before the hordes is worth every hour of sleep lost. As an added bonus this is also a time of day when the light is phenomenal. I guarantee the feeling you get will make you forget any fatigue. When I was the first to set my eyes on the Taj Mahal, I felt I was the first explorer ever to discover it. Spending a moment (however brief) on my own at the foot of some of the world’s most exquisite places has raised hairs on the back of my neck and brought tears to my eye. I recall fondly being the first to reach the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu while it became illuminated by the day’s first rays of sun with only the sound of my breath to break the silence.

An unpopular opinion of Bali

This might be an unpopular opinion but I hate Bali. That’s right I said it. I hate what Bali has become.

It’s been 8 years since I last visited Bali and I’ve now come to the conclusion that it is the antithesis of sustainable tourism. Even whilst planning my first visit to Indonesia in 2015, I had no inclination of travelling to Bali. Time is a commodity, and I chose to spend it in more interesting parts of Indonesia. The main island of Java and the eastern islands stimulated my inner travel curiosity. I never understood Bali’s appeal and I understand it even less so now. There are over 17,000 islands in Indonesia, and it seems that everyone descends onto this one island. In 2015, I ended up staying in Bali for just one night in order to catch my flight back to London. Fast forward to 2023 and given that much of Asia has been closed to tourism because of the “C” word, I decided to give Bali a second chance given I was now travelling with a family of young children. They would at least be well catered for during our week on the island.

One for the gram!

Ever since “Eat Pray Love” released in 2010, Bali has always evoked images of spiritual authenticity and a sense of the traveling community. Those days are well and truly gone. In 2019, Bali welcomed over 6 million tourists who were densely concentrated in Ubud and the southern parts of the island. Over tourism has elevated traffic and pollution at an alarming rate on the once idyllic island. Bali’s traffic of cars and vans now move at a snail’s pace along an infrastructure which was only designed for scooters. I can only imagine the ensuing chaos during the summer peak months when tourist numbers return in their coach loads to pre-pandemic levels. I was told by one Balinese travel representative that during these peak times, guests had to disembark the coach from the outskirts of Ubud and walk to their hotel with the hotel staff scrambling behind with their luggage. Is this your idea of paradise?

8 years is a long time in Bali and during this time it has become an island favoured by the bourgeois middle class who boast about their far-flung exotic travels but rarely leave the confines of their infinity pool and buffet breakfast. During my absence, the Instagram effect has taken its toll with queues for hours at every waterfall or temple to get the exact same influencer “money shot”, some even shot with a mirror to mimic a water reflection. Bali’s perception of “cool” is what the West has imposed on it, what the West has demanded of it. It is essentially western imperialism by stealth with organic and vegan “instagrammable” cafes spreading and smothering any notion of authentic Balinese culture. The island itself has become one big theme park which caters to everyone from luxury honeymooners, families, flashpackers to the off-their-face budget traveller. Just look at the tourist obsession with rice paddies in Bali. There are hotels and “lounge bars” that purposely overlook working rice paddies as entertainment for tourists with a swing installed so you can not only watch the peasants work but also have fun doing it…!

Are rice paddies equivalent of a potato farm in the UK?!

The sad reality is that for Bali, over tourism is a necessary evil given 80% of their economy relies entirely on tourist revenue and a government hellbent on COVID recovery by squeezing every Rupiah out of each tourist they stamp in. With the increased investment in the neighbouring island of Lombok, it looks like Lombok will inevitably repeat the same mistakes as Bali.

It is true that Bali is an easy place to travel. The airport serves many international direct routes from the West and Middle East. Whether its hotels, restaurants or activities, you are spoilt for choice but at what cost? You have to ask yourself “Is it worth it?”. Authenticity and luxury are not always mutually exclusive. Indonesia is a huge country to explore and if you’re looking for real Indonesia, then head out to the main island of Java or the islands further East where you can still find luxury (albeit few and far between) but you’ll get a more thought provoking/poignant experience as a reward. I can only recommend Bali as a convenient jump off point to other islands in Indonesia. In Bali, consumerism has well and truly prevailed.

Social Distance Yourself to the Middle of Nowhere (Virtually!)

As I scratch off another day of being in isolation owing to the Covid-19 outbreak and struggling to remember whether it’s a Tuesday or Wednesday, I started to reminisce when I actually went out of my way to isolate myself in the middle of nowhere - voluntarily cutting myself off from civilisation. Being in isolation gives me time to reflect. I reflect on the journey I took, on how privileged I am to be at that very place in time and on how far I’ve come to be the person I am now. I like to think I’m a sociable person even extroverted at times, but I have an insatiable appetite for space, wilderness and isolation. The quest for uncertainty, unfamiliarity and discovery.

These are my favourite middle of nowhere places:

1) Patagonia, Chile

Mirador Base Las Torres

The first time I trekked around Torres Del Paine National Park in the heart of Patagonia was during winter. On average, the park attracts 700 visitors a day during the summer peak. As I registered my name at the park entrance, I was only the third person to have entered the park that day and one Japanese tourist was reported lost. Given all the boat services were closed for the season, there were no shortcuts. Even during the winter, the sun was intense, but the air was crisp. The lengthy flat walks were lonely and mind-numbing at times, but I was kept on my toes as curious wild horses canter past.

2) Antarctica

Just glaciers

It comes as no surprise that Antarctica is the coldest, windiest, and most isolated continent on Earth. It is also the largest desert in the world. Tourism in Antarctica has seen a 50% growth in visitors over the last 4 years so to get a real sense of isolation, it’s important to choose a relatively small boat as your preferred tour operator. Although landings are limited to 100 explorers at a time, the surroundings are so overwhelmingly vast that there were times when it was unsettling.

3) Kauai, United States

The natural amphitheatre at the end of the Awa'awapuhi Trail

Choosing a small populated island part of the United States might seem an incongruous choice for a middle of nowhere place. This remote part of the island is found on the Hawaiian island of Kauai at the very end of the Awa'awapuhi Trail. Not only is Kauai literally in the middle of the largest ocean in the world but standing on this knife edge ridge whilst looking out of this prehistoric basin with the seemingly infinite sea as a backdrop was a humbling experience.

4) Easter Island, Chile

Ahu Tongariki

I only started to appreciate the remoteness of Easter Island when my flight took off from Santiago in Chile. For the entire duration of the flight, all I saw out my cabin window was the never-ending azure Pacific Ocean. My most memorable moment on the island was spent watching the sunrise with the Moai statues lost in the rhythmic percussion of waves pillowed by the rocks.

5) Amazon Basin, Peru

Amazon Rainforest

There are still unknown tribes of indigenous people hidden in the largest rainforest in the world, some of whom have not made contact with civilisation. The jungle is a maze of lush verdant plants and trees. I did a short walk with a guide to spot wildlife and plants and failed to even realise we had done a circular route. Without a guide, getting lost would be an inevitability.

6) Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

Mount Kilimanjaro

The trails heading to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro are hustle and bustle with travellers supported by a troupe of porters and guides. Probably not the most isolated place on Earth I experienced but when I stepped off the trail to take a gasp of air, I found myself in an eerie and stark landscape. The sight of my goal looked impossibly distant.

7) Ciudad Perdida, Colombia

The ruins of Ciudad Perdida

Ciudad Perdida is Spanish for “Lost City” and only discovered relatively recently in 1972. It’s difficult to imagine that the ruins were lost in the jungle for millennia and even predates Machu Picchu. It takes over two days to trek there through dense Colombian jungle. I was looking for a remote trekking experience and this adventure did not disappoint. I relish the small things like having to carry my backpack above my head whilst wading through chest height rapids. Although not a technically difficult trek, I was constantly damp and wet but the Lost City at the end was an unparalleled experience.

8) Atacama Desert, Chile

Valle de Luna

This is one of the best places in the world I have had the pleasure of admiring the sunset. This alien-like desert is the driest nonpolar desert in the world. I chose to cycle here so that I can find a spot away from the tour buses. I’ve always been attracted to the vast expanses of deserts and the feeling of insignificance amongst the wide-open space. I sat on the ridge and witnessed the lunar landscape gradually turning hues of orange and then to red before the moon started to appear in the horizon.

9) Namib Desert, Namibia

Deadvlei

Deadvlei is located in the Namib desert which means “vast place”. I spent 2 hours climbing to the top of the highest dune in the world. It was sweltering at the peak but I was surrounded by undulating dunes as far as I could see. At the bottom I could make out Deadvlei, a dried clay pan punctuated by fossilised acacia trees. This desolate panorama provides a surreal backdrop to sit down in the shade and reflect on your place in this world.

10) Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

The Indian Nose

Perched on top of a ridge the locals call the “Indian Nose” is a viewing hut with the most awe-inspiring view of Lake Atitlan. After paying a local boy with a machete for “patrolling” the route (not sure I really had a choice!), I sat there just after sunrise looking out at three volcanoes watching over the sacred lake like sentinels.

11) Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Salar de Uyuni

The Salar de Uyuni is the world’s largest salt flat. I didn’t appreciate just how expansive the salt flats are until I tore across it riding shotgun in a 4x4. As there is no near point of reference, I could not even gauge how fast the car was travelling. I felt like I was trapped on an infinite road to nowhere in this stark alien environment.

Amari Dhaka - The Haven

As part of the flight options to Bhutan, I was given the choice to either stop off at Kathmandu, Bangkok or Dhaka on my return leg. I wasn’t aware of any thing notable to see in Dhaka nor was it on the tourist radar. Given my in-laws had roots in Bangladesh and the idea of travelling should be about discovery, I was compelled to dive into the unknown. Dhaka it was then!

I don’t think I was quite prepared for Dhaka as my mind was still in a state of tranquillity from the laid back Bhutanese culture and the spiritual ambience permeating through me. As I wandered outside the airport, the chaos which ensued was an assault to the senses. I had come from the only carbon negative country in the world to one of the most densely populated place in the world. I admit that even as a seasoned traveller, the change was overwhelming but one of the main traits of a good traveller is the ability to adapt to your surroundings. I gained by bearings and jumped in a taxi to my base for the next couple of days – the Amari Dhaka.

The Atrium at Amari Dhaka

The Amari Dhaka is based in the Dhaka’s business district of Gulshan-2 which is less than 20 minutes from the airport. However, be warned as the infrastructure is in development, the traffic can be bumper to bumper most of the time so allow plenty of time when you need to catch a flight. Gulshan-2 is very different from most the districts I had experienced in Dhaka. For starters, all the buildings are behind gated developments and there doesn’t seem to be many pedestrians on the street which was surprising given the density of the population. The advantage being that the location is very secluded to the frenetic world outside. Everyone needs an escape in Dhaka.

After a frenzied start to my travels to Bangladesh it was perfect place to unwind at the in-house gym followed by a massage at the friendly Breeze Spa. The food at the Amari Dhaka was one of my highlights. It was impeccable and meets the expectations of a 5-star hotel. I tried the famous Amaya buffet which is very popular amongst the locals. There are distinguished chefs specialising in cuisines from around the world including Italian, Thai, Indian, Japanese, Chinese and even an outdoor barbeque. Whilst on the topic about food, being in South Asia, I have never been that impressed with the desserts but I was pleasantly surprised by the Cascade Coffee Lounge in the Amari Dhaka which offered some tantalising delicacies created by prominent pâtissiers.

Amaya Food Gallery

The Amari Dhaka was a great starting point to exploring the city. As I pointed out earlier, there is not one significant attraction I would say Dhaka is famous for. The charm about the Dhaka is people watching. Witnessing their daily routine going about their lives was fascinating for me as a traveller as well as a photographer. Amari’s concierge can arrange a driver for a day trip around Dhaka which I would recommend if you were short on time as I was. I recommend adding the following places to your itinerary:

Old Dhaka

The historic part of Dhaka has over 400 years of history. It certainly looks like it too. The best way to negotiate the narrow streets and watch the world go by is on a rickshaw. It is a street photographers’ playground.

The streets of Old Dhaka are full of character

Sadarghat (Port)

The first thing you notice when you get to the waterfront is the foul stench. It will hit you like a brick wall. Try and forget about the smell of the Buriganga River and perceive the river as the lifeblood of Dhaka and Bangladesh. Sadarghat is the main terminal where boats or launches depart from. I took a small rowing wooden boat to explore the shores and observed the charming river life – the commuters on their daily river cross and labourers fixing dilapidated ships. This would be eventually my jump off point to the Sundarbans.

Shankhari Bazaar (Hindu Street)

This even narrower street, is made up of predominantly of Hindus in a largely Muslim city. The street is lined with richly decorated buildings, shops and Hindu temples. The district is buzzing with activity and rickshaws are constantly brushing past you. A real experience for travellers.

A Railway Station

Not only are the trains a popular means of travel around Bangladesh, they are teeming with characters and interesting subjects framed by vintage rickety trains.

Hotel le Fontanelle is Quintessential Italy

Whilst we were enroute to a Tuscany wedding, we decided for a brief stay at Hotel le Fontanelle. Nestled in the middle of the rolling verdant hills of the countryside in the heart of Italy’s Chianti region, it was wonderfully set up for a couple of days to unwind before the festivities. The hotel was a 30-minute drive from Siena through miles and miles of vineyards and cypress trees. Getting there was actually an attraction in itself!  

The hotel is a bit tricky to find but having made no wrong turns (surprisingly!), the best advice I can give is to follow the directions provided by the hotel to the letter. Do not rely solely on Google Maps or the satnav. As we admired the scenery, the winding country roads led us up to a prestigious large iron gate which marks the entrance to Hotel le Fontanelle’s 80 hectares estate lined with vineyards and olive trees. 

Whilst we sat down in the hotel lobby or more accurately described as an elegant Tuscan living room, to wait for our passports to be processed we browsed through the fascinating photo album detailing the history of the gradual but faithful reconstruction of the property. The main part of the hotel dates right back to the thirteenth century and the owner has made sure that as much of the original architecture is maintained around further expansion and renovation plans. 

We were staying in a suite detached from the main hotel building thoughtfully separated by a botanical garden and a row of typical cypress trees. The kids loved ambling through being surrounded by a kaleidoscope of butterflies and a vast array of flora and fauna. As we were whizzed over in the golf carts to our suite, a storm cloud gathered in the horizon. In any other place we would’ve been disappointed, but the Tuscan countryside is beautiful in any weather. It was hardly tough to look at!

The suite we had was spacious even for a family of four. Despite the fact that our quarters were recently built, the rooms exuded the essence of Tuscany and the local traditions with terracotta floors and a beamed ceiling. Being situated on top of a hill, the views from the room of the Chianti valley down below was breath-taking. 

Naturally, being a hotel set in a vineyard, there are wine tasting tours to experience. However, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Hotel Le Fontanelle caters for the family too. There are also plenty of activities for the kids such as having a splash in the outdoor and indoor swimming pool as well as free access to mountain bikes to explore the valley. I enjoyed a morning cycle ride along the narrow country roads which evoked memories of my childhood gliding down the hills on my first bike holding firmly on to my hat. After all the driving from Cinque Terre, my wife took full advantage of the Wellness Centre which was fully equipped with a gym, sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi. During our stay I was told that there are plans in place to in expand the spa facility too. 

My favourite experience was just simply sitting on the Belvedere Terrace whether it was for breakfast or for dinner at the "Restaurant La Colonna". The terrace was the perfect setting for an Italian alfresco dining experience with panoramic postcard views of the surrounding Tuscan countryside. I found myself constantly switching between looking up at the scenery and back down at the exquisite food served in front of me. As the sun set and the light cycled through its warm tones in the distance over the rolling Chianti hills marked with lines of cypress trees, I thought to myself “This is quintessential Italy”. When you close your eyes and think of Italy, this is the Italy you see. 

Break from the City Break – Ishigaki

Upon my return from our second family holiday in Japan, I was asked what I got up to. Among my list, I mentioned SUP in Ishigaki. One popular response was “Where the heck do you do SUP in Japan??”. It seems that many people are not aware of the tropical beach side to Japan in the Ryukyu Islands southwest of Japan towards Taiwan which consist of small islands with idyllic white sand beaches. Even the Japanese perceive Ishigaki as exotic! Given, we had been to Japan before we wanted to punctuate a city break with a beach holiday. There is no doubt it is adding to the travel woes to catch another flight with kids in tow especially when everyone’s still jetlagged but it’s worth it to see a very different and contrasting side to Japan where the locals go for their staycation. With that in mind after a bit of research we settled for Ishigaki. Ishigaki is a a stunning island in Japan's Okinawa archipelago and is the top trending travel destination for 2018 on TripAdvisor. We chose Ishigaki for the family friendly activities, incredible food options and the warm turquoise waters. 

There are several domestic airlines which fly several times a day to Ishigaki from the major cities in mainland Japan. We departed from Osaka as we were planning day trips from Osaka on our return. The flight would take just under 2 hours from the hustle and bustle. On the day of our outgoing flight, it was grey, dreary and the summer rain lashed down. We dreaded the worst for our mini beach break! June in Japan is considered to be rainy season but we thought we would chance it as it was still technically shoulder season. As we stepped off the plane the first thing that hit us was the humidity. I had to take a moment and question: “Are we still in Japan?”. The contrast in climates could not have been greater. We had left a concrete jungle to palm trees and farms. I was drawn to Ishigaki based on the fact that it was not over developed. There were only a couple of resorts to choose from and most places were not crowded. Ishigaki and its open spaces would be a welcome break.

The sun was intense and the heat was stifling. We later learnt that there was a typhoon the week before where it rained for a week. We had lucked out. If you are planning to visit Ishigaki, I strongly recommend that you hire a car to explore the island whether you have kids with you or not. Taxis are expensive and the buses are infrequent. The Japanese car hire firms were friendly and efficient although not very proficient in English. Don’t forget your International Driving Permit which you can easily process on the day in most post offices back in the UK. An added bonus is that the Japanese drive on the left too!

So with the aircon on full blast we set off for a 30 minute drive to the InterContinental Ishigaki Resort where we were staying for the next 3 nights. The roads were easy to drive, mostly country roads but well paved. I expected nothing less given I was still in Japan after all. The InterContinental Ishigaki Resort was a perfect family retreat. They had really thought out the whole hotel with the family in mind. The classic seafront rooms were a generous size for a family of 4 with small sofa bed perfect for children under 10. The outdoor pool was thoughtfully equipped with floats for children and even a slide. The impressive creche was so immaculate we felt guilty letting our kids run riot in there! Being a father, I actually appreciated the free valet parking which made getting in and out of the car with two toddlers almost effortless. The resort also provides a self-service coin laundry and save on the hotel laundry bill.

As I mentioned the InterContinental Ishigaki Resort caters for all the family. Whilst the kids were in the creche for the morning, I signed up to a morning of Stand Up Paddle boarding (SUP) and snorkelling tour. The warm ocean was crystal clear and easily competes with the Caribbean sea. Before we even stood up on the paddleboard, my guide Tomo asked me if I had done this before? Trying to impress him I replied confidently: “No but I’ve surfed once before!”. He looked at me perplexed but politely said that would help! The tour was one-on-one and Tomo had a waterproof camera to take photos of me whilst I concentrated on balancing whilst paddling! I think my guide Tomo was just being nice when he said I was a natural…(I did only fall in once!). We paddled to some reefs and slipped on our snorkelling gear to see the coral teeming with fish and even a few Nemos! It was my highlight of Ishigaki. In contrast, after two flights and not to mention a Shinkansen ride to Osaka, my wife was longing for more relaxing activities. She was delighted with the treatments at the in-house SPA Agarosa and Yoga on the beach at sunrise.

Outside of our resort we there were plenty of fascinating sights for all the family. We first set off for Kabira Bay, an enclosed bay famous for its white sand beaches and turquoise waters. The only way to tour the bay is by a glass bottom boat where you can clearly see the coral and sea life without getting wet. It’s perfect for inquisitive kids! Don’t forget to take a view from the observation point for a bird’s eye view of the bay. Another unmissable viewpoint on the island is at the Tamatorizaki Observatory Point where you can get a sweeping panoramic view of Ishigaki island. Here you can marvel at the different hues of blues in the Pacific Ocean.

For a rainy morning or afternoon, I would highly recommend the Ishigaki Yaima Village, a reconstructed village which showcases the local Yaima culture. Initially, I had my doubts as it looked a bit “Disney” but the variety of cultural experiences kept the kids thoroughly entertained, the highlight being the playful Squirrel Monkeys and the kimono fitting. They slept well that night.

It was surprisingly cheap to dine out in Ishigaki given that it was on an island and in Japan. It did not come as a surprise that the sashimi was the freshest I tasted. However, Ishigaki is also renowned for the cattle raised on this little island and the beef it produces. It is arguably even better than the famous Kobe beef. Fortunately, the concierge at the InterContinental Ishigaki Resort had already made lunch and dinner reservations 3 months prior to arrival. I recommend reservations as most restaurants require advance bookings even during the off peak season. My stand out favourites were Hitoshi Ishiganto where I mistakenly ordered a sashimi platter for three persons but still managed to finish it without assistance and Sumibiyakiniku Yamamoto for the mouth-watering tender beef!

Our short visit to Ishigaki was a pleasant and relaxed introduction to the Yaeyama islands whilst only scratching the surface of the Okinawa archipelago. For the more adventurous, the neighbouring island Iriomote which is mainly covered in jungles and mangrove swamps offered a variety of active pursuits such as kayaking and canyoning. We gave these a miss until our daughters were a bit older so we will be back!

Before you embark on your amazing tour around Japan, I recommend picking up a Ninja Wifi Pocket Router from Haneda airport (you can also conveniently drop it off before your flight back home). Click on the link above for 10% off! It’s an affordable way to stay online without having to pay for exorbitant international roaming charges. The router is easy to carry and you can just pop it in your backpack and forget it’s there. I found it invaluable to connect all our family devices when we were out and about particularly the constant access to Google Maps when navigating the streets of Japan’s sprawling cities.

Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Review

When I entered my villa at the Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle, I picked up a card addressed to me and read one simple note inside: “Welcome to Paradise”. I was sceptical… was this some hyperbole plastered all over those Thomas Cook adverts? Yes, the traditional singers who welcomed you as you crossed a Zen like water feature was a great touch but could this resort differentiate itself from the others?

Given we had two toddlers, we opted to stay in a spacious villa as opposed to a normal hotel room. We were shown to our villa by Yohan who would be our Villa Host for the time we stayed. You may wonder what the duties of a Villa Host may entail. Well it’s anything and everything! Yohan would pick us up in a tuk tuk and chauffer us to the various restaurants, pick my kids up from the Children’s Club, and even arrange for tailoring. I could only describe him as your personal millennial concierge with WhatsApp! As soon as we were introduced to our villa with accompanying cinematic music in the background, we admired our surroundings like we were giving a performance of a lifetime for a TV advertisement. The room was spectacular with an equally impressive and spacious bathroom - perfect for a family of four. I have never seen my wife grinning from ear to ear before. Clearly, I have finally done something right!

We stayed in the Garden View Villa which was set in a secluded spot at the back of a rather expansive resort. It was away from the beach and the main pool which we didn’t mind as the villa boasted its own private infinity pool which turned out to be great for kids to play around in as soon as they got out of bed. Although, the pool was a bit too convenient as I found out to my detriment when I went for an impromptu swim with my iPhone still in my pocket….! 

The resort had a community feel to it which I hadn’t experienced before at a resort and this is the main charm about the Anantara Tangalle. Right from the traditional greeting including foot massage, to the traditional farewell ceremonies, it set the tone for the duration of our stay. Not only do the staff make you feel at home, they chat to you like old friends catching up with one another. By only the second day, restaurant staff would address me by my name which is impressive given there were hundreds of guests staying there. The staff at the Children’s Club would wave to us as we sped past in a tuk tuk as if they had been looking after our children since they started nursery!  

Uniquely, the expansive grounds of the Anantara Tangalle was surrounded by rice paddies, as well as its own king coconut tree plantation. It even had its own variety of indigenous animals sharing the grounds with the hotel guests. It’s not uncommon to walk past peacocks and other wildlife on the way to breakfast. The nature walks organised by the Children’s Club were a big draw for both the kids and parents alike. The Anantara Tangalle was not just a resort where people lazed by the pool or beach, there were plenty of activities for someone active like me. Aside from sunrise surfing to sunset yoga, there were day excursions to various national parks, whale and turtle watching.

The Ayurvedic spa was my wife’s favourite feature of the hotel. I think she spent more time there than our villa! When you think of a hotel spa you instantly think of a reception and one or two treatment rooms. I’m not exaggerating when I say that the spa at the Anantara Tangalle is the size of a boutique hotel! It was equipped with several treatment rooms and various relaxation areas. There was even an onsite Ayurvedic doctor who came in handy when my wife had sustained neck pain caused by all the travelling we did. 

The Anantara Tangalle is a perfect break after doing a 10+ days loop of the Sri Lanka where you would have already explored much of the country and sampled the local cuisine or longer for returning visitors. Sometimes when I do a tour of a country with my family, it’s a good idea to build a few days out of the daily car journeys and packing and unpacking to just focus on the family and where better to do it than in the community paradise at the Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle.